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Double Acting One Cylinder E-mail
Here's a complete construction sequence for a LEGO engine. This is a real smooth runner, and being double acting, it can start from almost any degree of the crankshaft's rotation. I wish I had the LEGO rpm sensor to test it for sure, but from the sound it makes, my guess is that it reaches 700 rpm under full (and I do mean full) 'steam.'
00-The_Double_acting_4x4_single_cylinder_steam_engine.jpg
The double-acting 4x4 single cylinder steam engine


This page is quite graphic intensive. So those of you still on 33kbps modems, please be patient.

If 700 rpm isn't impressive enough for you, then check out Mecevan's page. With the lego rpm sensor, this fellow has been getting 2300 rpm readings out of a similar engine to mine, running on suction from a vacuum cleaner.
 
This engine uses a 6x6 cylinder, and a 4x4 piston. I attribute the higher speed with this design, it would seem that the added displacement helps to offset the friction. It seems there's not the same increase in friction in the larger size. (Some of my other engines used 2x2 piston designs.)

Parts:
• 6x6 plate x 1
10-The_cylinder_head,_a_6x6_plate.jpg
The cylinder head is a 6x6 plate

Be sure to get this in the right spot. The valving/timing depends on the location of the ports.

Parts:
• 6x1 brick x 2
• 4x1 brick x 1
• 2x1 brick x 1
• 1x1 brick x 1
11-The_cylinder_head,_shows_top_intake_port.jpg
The cylinder head, shows top intake port

Parts:
• 6x1 brick x 2
• 4x1 brick x 2
12-The_cylinder_head,_second_row.jpg
The cylinder head, second row

Parts:
• 6x1 brick x 2
• 1x1 brick x 4
13-The_cylinder_head,_third_row.jpg
The cylinder head, third row

The cylinder will 'rock' on these pivots. I used 2x1 blocks with the pegs molded right into the side. You could also use a 2x1 block with a hole, and then one of those grey pins, but the mechanism would be a little more sloppy.

Parts:
• 2x1 brick with pegs x 2
14-Cylinder_pivots.jpg
Cylinder pivots

Parts:
• 2x1 brick with holes x 2
15-Pivot_blocks.jpg
Pivot blocks

Use a 4x4 plate for the piston, and a gear snaps right into place in the center. Then a 6-long shaft is used for the connecting rod.

Parts:
• 4x4 plate x 1
• 24 tooth gear x 1
• 6 length shaft x 1
16-Piston_and_rod_assembly.jpg
Piston and rod assembly

  17-Piston_fitted_into_cylinder.jpg
Piston fitted into cylinder

Parts:
• 4x2 plate x 4
18-Base_of_cylinder.jpg
Base of cylinder

Parts:
• 4x2 plate with holes x 1
19-Connecting_rod_exit_gland.jpg
Connecting rod exit gland

Parts:
• 1x1 plate x 2
20-Plugging_the_extra_holes.jpg
Plugging the extra holes

Parts:
• wrist
21-Wrist_on_connecting_rod.jpg
Wrist on connecting rod

Parts:
• U figure it out
22-First_row_of_engine_base.jpg
First row of engine base

  23-Second_row_of_engine_base.jpg
Second row of engine base

  24-Engine_base,_note_notches_for_pivot_supports.jpg
Engine base, not notches for pivot supports

Parts:
• 2x2 inverted slant brick x 2
25-Engine_base,_pivot_supports_in_place.jpg
Engine base, pivot supports in place

Parts:
• U figure it out
26-Engine_base,_note_notch_for_crankshaft_bearings.jpg
Engine base, note notch for crankshaft bearings

Parts:
• 2x1 brick with holes x 2
• Grey shaft collars x 2
• 8 length shaft x 1
27-Crankshaft_and_bearings_in_place.jpg
Crankshaft and bearings in place

Parts:
• 40 tooth gear x 1
• Large tire x 1
28-Bearings_completed,_crankwheel_and_flywheel_in_place.jpg
Bearings completed, crankwheel and flywheel in place

Parts:
• 4x3 slant brick x 2
• 4x2 peak brick x 1
29-Cap_on_top_of_bearing_assembly.jpg
Cap on top of bearing assembly

Parts:
• Grey pin x 1
(Attaches connecting rod wrist to crankwheel)
30-Cylinder_put_into_place.jpg
Cylinder put into place

Ok, ok. I've been saying 'U figure it out' on some of these steps. That's because there's an almost infinite number of possible ways to fill in these parts. However, I will say this: Make sure you interlock the parts with the layer below! In other words, cover the seams so that there are as few 'stacked seams' as possible, so the structure is solid and strong! (You expert LEGO builders out there know what I'm saying.) 31-Final_row_on_engine_base.jpg
Final row on engine base

Parts:
• 4x8 plate x 1
32-Steam_chest_bottom_is_4x8_plate.jpg
Steam chest bottom is 4x8 plate

Parts:
• 4x1 brick x 4
33-Steam_chest_porting.jpg
Steam chest porting

Parts:
• 4x8 plate x 1

As a final step it may be necessary to put the engine on a nice flat surface and press firmly around the engine base (and the cylinder before mounting it in the engine base). This more thoroughly aligns the whole engine and reduces binding. You may also need to do this periodically as well, because the parts tend to work loose with running.

Also, a word or two about running. The engine will not start at top (0°) or bottom (180°) dead center. It needs to be slightly past one of these points for the piston to apply sufficient starting torque. The engine may also need a stronger starting blast of air than it does to keep it running.

There seems to be something about the way a person blows, too. Some of my friends are completely unable to run the engine; they just slobber all over it. Others (including myself) know something about puckering up and giving a good hard 'dry' blow into the engine. If all else fails, and you are certain your engine spins freely, try running it backward with a vacuum cleaner. This is how like to I like to run my double acting twin cylinder engine.
34-Completed_engine!!.jpg
Completed engine!!
 


 
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